How to Make a Tall Concrete Planter

We are welcoming another amazing and talented DIYer to our contributor team today! You are going to LOVE Elisha and her awesome projects, so give her a warm Remodelaholic welcome and be sure to go check out all her projects at Pneumatic Addict!

 

Hi everyone! My name is Elisha and I blog at PneumaticAddict.com. I'm a life long DIYer and power tool addict. My blog features in-depth tutorials on topics like furniture building, home decor and home improvement.

 

We moved into our new house about nine months ago and its the first time we've had a landscaped backyard. I'm loving it! We are spending so much time outside, I feel inspired to spruce up our space.  I started by building a Rolling Outdoor Island, and hanging a DIY Solar Powered Chandelier. Recently, I made a tall concrete planter and I'm here to show you how. Scroll down for free building plans.

How to Build a Tall Concrete Planter

by Elisha of Pneumatic Addict

 

 

 

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Materials List:

• (1) 4′ x 8′ x 3/4″ sheet melamine


• (1) 23-3/4″ x 96″ melamine shelving


• (1) 2 x 4 x 96″


• (1) 3/4″ PVC pipe


• (8) 50 lb bag of quick setting concrete mix


• (4) 1 lb concrete pigment


• masonry trowell


• plastic drop cloth


• duct tape


• silicone caulk


• 2″ wood screws


• 2-1/2″ wood screws


• 1/8″ drill bit


• power drill


• circular saw


• shovel


• wheelbarrow or large sturdy container

 

Cut List:

• (2) melamine sheet @ 23-3/4″ x 32″


• (2) melamine sheet @ 21-1/4″ x 32″


• (1) melamine sheet @ 23-3/4″ x 30-1/4″


• (2) melamine sheet @ 16-3/4″ x 30″


• (2) melamine sheet @ 18-1/4″ x 30″


• (1) melamine sheet @ 16-3/4″ x 16-3/4″


• (2) 2 x 4 @ approximately 39-1/2″


• (1) 2 x 4 @ 16-3/4″

 

1. The first step was to construct the outer box of the form. I attached the wider panels to the outside edges of the smaller panels, and secured them in place with 2″ wood screws. To avoid blowout, I made sure to pre-drill with a 1/8″ drill bit before driving the screws.

 

 

 

 

2. Next, I attached a 23-3/4″ x 30-1/4″ panel to the bottom side of the box.

 

 

 

 

 

3. Despite having a black thumb, I remembered to include drains in the bottom of my planter. I cut two, 2″ lengths of PVC and glued them to the inside of the bottom panel.

 

 

 

4. I decided to give my planter a little decorative detail. I cut and mitered some screen moulding, and attached it around the inside perimeter of the form. You could use almost any kind of moulding, but make sure its either solid wood or plastic. MDF will dissolve while sitting in the wet concrete and be almost impossible to remove.

 

 

 

5. Next, I put the inner box together. Unlike the outer box, I drilled 3/4″ pocket holes along the long sides of the 16 3/4″ x 30″ panels. I then joined them together with the 18-1/4″ x 30″ panels.

 

 

 

6. I cut a 16-3/4″ x 16-3/4″ panel and drilled pocket holes around the perimeter. I aligned the panel flush with the bottom of the box and secured it in place with 1-1/4″ screws.

 

 7. I cut a 16-1/4″ length of 2 x 4 and drilled two pocket holes on each end. I then attached it between the two shorter panels of the inner box, using 2″ screws.

 

 

 

 8. To make the forms water-tight, I sealed every seam on both boxes with silicone caulk.

 

 

Next, I used duct tape to cover any of the raw edges of the melamine.

 

 

9. I cut the remaining 2 x 4 in half to use as support rails. I spaced them evenly across the top of the inner box and secured them in place with 2-1/2″ screws.

 

 

 

10. Time to pour the concrete. I'll give this advice: when working with dyed concrete, make sure to lay down a thick plastic drop cloth. It will stain everything it comes in contact with. I also highly recommend setting up your form close to where your planter will permanently sit. The finished piece will weigh around 400 lbs, so you don't want to be moving it further than you have to.

 

I placed the outer box on a flat, level surface, and started to pour. I poured the concrete two inches thick, just to the top of the drains. I took a quick minute to tamp the concrete and knock out air bubbles.

 

 

 

 11. Immediately I placed the inner box inside the outer box and made sure I had a 2″ clearance on all sides. I drove two screws through each support rail, into the outer box, securing the form in place.

 

 

 

Then, I kept shoveling the concrete till I reached the top of the form, tamping and knocking out air bubbles as I went.

 

 

 

When the concrete is firm enough to hold a thumbprint, I used a steel masonry trowel to smooth the top.

 

 

 

At this point I cleaned up and anxiously waited for paint concrete to dry. The mix I used recommended at least 18 hrs, but I would wait longer if you can.

Removing the form and moving the planter with just two people was definitely challenging. I think it would be a great idea to rent a furniture dolly and invite a few buddies over. Once you have your new concrete planter in place, you can plant just about anything you'd like. It's even large enough to house a small tree.

 

The inexpensive screen moulding was simple to install and I'm thrilled with the clean design they left.

 

 

Now I really wish I had a huge front porch. A pair of tall, decorative planters would look amazing sitting by my front door. What do you think? Are you ready to get your hands dirty and make your own

 

 

 

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More ways to give your outside landscaping a LIFT:

Build a tall “Vive la France” wooden planter

 

Add an easy chevron lattice to trellis plants

 

Build a gothic-inspired garden arbor and trellis combo

 

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