Hi it’s Amy from Hertoolbelt, back with another build plan. An outdoor space can be a wonderful way to relax and enjoy the nice weather. Cassity’s outdoor coffee table on her deck has made a few appearances on Remodelaholic like here and here, and I love it. It is such a great anchor piece for an outdoor space, or even indoors.
I am going to share 2 options to build the X base for the table, complex and simple. The original table uses mortise and tenon joints and the wood dimensions are rough cut size 2″ x 2″ and 1″ x 2″ which you’ll have to purchase at a wood distribution store. The simple version will be a little more ‘chunky’ than the original. The simple version will use lumber that is readily available at the home improvement store and pocket holes.
How to Build an Outdoor Coffee Table with X Base
SIMPLE VERSION (using pocket holes and readily available lumber sizes)
Materials
- 1 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′ post (actual 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
- 6 – 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″)
- 2 1/2″ pocket screws
- wood glue
- sandpaper
- 34″ x 34″ top
- Stain/top coat
- Estimated lumber cost: $22
Cut List
- 4 – 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 18″
- 3 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 31″
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 30″
- 8 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 27″
- 8 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 14 3/8″
Step 1
Cut the wood according to the cut list. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the 27″ boards. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach the 27″ boards to the top and bottom of the corner posts. Keep the front of the boards flush with the front of the posts.
Step 2
Cut the boards for the first half of the X. Note: the dotted lines are guides that represent the original board. On each end of the 30″ boards, mark the board center (1 1/4″ from the side). The angle is suppose to be 25.7 deg, just start the cutting at 25 deg and trim as needed. Close up of the end.
Cut the pieces for the other half of the X.
Dry fit all of the X pieces to make sure they fit, and trim as needed.
Step 3
Drill pocket holes to attach the X’s to the main frame. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ screws to secure them.
Repeat for all 4 sides. Drill pocket holes in the 31″ boards, and attach them flush with the top. These boards will help keep the frame straight and support the top.
Step 4
Remove any excess glue, apply wood filler to holes, cracks and blemishes and allow to dry. Sand the wood filler and table base until smooth finishing with 120-150 grit sand paper, always finish sanding in the direction of the grain. Apply wood conditioner and stain to the table and allow to dry. Apply a top coat/polyurethane/polycrylic as directed and allow to dry.
Add a 34″ x 34″ top to the table base. Here are a few ideas of alternate materials to the stone:
- 2″x 6″ or 2″ x 8″ boards to create the planked look
- Concrete top
- Tile top
- Faux painted stone: Faux Zinc, Faux Marble
- Metal wrapped
COMPLEX VERSION (using mortise and tenon joints and rough cut lumber)
Materials
- 1 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′ board (actually 2″ x 2″)
- 8 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actually 1″ x 2″)
- 1 1/2″ pocket screws
- 1″, 2″ brad nails
- wood glue
- sandpaper
- 34″ x 34″ top
- Stain/top coat
Cut List
- 4 – 2″ x 2″ x 18″
- 11 – 1″ x 2″ x 32″
- 8 – 1″ x 2″ x 33 1/8″
Step 1 / Complex
Cut the wood according to the cut list. In the 4 corner posts, cut mortises in the top and bottom as shown. The mortises are 1″ deep, 2″ long and 3/8″ wide.
In 8 of the 32″ boards, cut tenons on each end according to the dimensions below.
The tenons should snugly fit in the mortises cut in the corner posts.
Step 2 / Complex
For the X boards, cut the angles on the ends. The angles are 25 deg, one end shows the dimensional measurements if you want to mark them on the board to cut. Dryfit the boards and trim as necessary.
Dryfit and X together in a table side, mark where the 2 X boards overlap in the middle. Use a router and remove the material 1/2″ deep to make a lap joint.
Step 3 / Complex
Assemble each side together, using wood glue on each joint. Use brad nails to pin the tenons and to secure the X’s. Repeat for all 4 sides.
Drill pocket holes in the 3 – 32″ boards, and attach them flush with the top. These boards will help keep the frame straight and support the top.
Step 4 / Complex
Remove any excess glue, apply wood filler to holes, cracks and blemishes and allow to dry. Sand the wood filler and table base until smooth finishing with 120-150 grit sand paper, always finish sanding in the direction of the grain. Apply wood conditioner and stain to the table and allow to dry. Apply a top coat/polyurethane/polycrylic as directed and allow to dry.
Add a 34″ x 34″ top to the table base.
For more build plans check out Hertoolbelt:
Outdoor Sofa // Scroll Console Table // Crate Coffee Table
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Looking for more outdoor tables? Try these!
Patio Table with Built-In Drink Coolers
Bucket Base Outdoor Coffee Table
Build an X-Base Table with Concrete Top
Build a drop-down outdoor buffet table
Build a wood slab coffee table
(be sure to weatherproof for outdoor use)
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