EveJulien: Building Plans: Patio Table with Built-in Drink Coolers

Hi it’s Amy from Hertoolbelt back with another build plan. This build plan is for the super popular patio table with built in ice boxes by Kruse’s Workshop featured here on Remodelaholic.

patio table witih built-in drink coolers, Kruse's Workshop on Remodelaholic

You can see the full photo building tutorial here, and benches here. There have been a few requests for ‘plans’, so here you go! Thanks again to Heidi and Brent for sharing their amazing talents with us, and for letting us sketch up a building plan for you — be sure to head over to Kruse’s Workshop for the instructions to build the benches and to say thanks!

Plans to Build a Patio Table with Built-in Drink Coolers

Materials

2 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2)
5 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
4 – 2″ x 8″ x 8′ boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4″)
2 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″)
2 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′ posts (actual 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
1 3/4″ deck screws
8 – 5/16″ x 3″ bolts
8 – 5/16″ washers
8 – 5/16″ wood anchors
2 – plastic planter boxes
120 grit sandpaper
80 grit sandpaper
Pre-conditioner, stain, exterior spar varnish, foam brushes, fine sanding block

Cut List

Suggested cutting guide, always measure and verify as you go. Lumber width dimensions may vary.

Step 1

Cut the 1×4 boards according to the cut diagram. Pre drill holes in the 20 3/4″ pieces to build 2 boxes that will support the plastic planter boxes. Secure the boxes together with 1 1/2″ minimum length screws. Cut the 2×4 boards according to the cut diagram. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 20 3/4″ boards and 34 1/4″ boards for 1 1/2″ material. Also drill pocket holes along a side of the 34 1/4″ boards to attach to the table top later. Assemble the icebox support frame around the icebox support as shown, secure the frame with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Make sure to offset the icebox support down in, such that when the planter box is resting on the icebox support the top of the planter box is flush with the 2×4 icebox support frame. Secure the icebox support to the frame with 1 3/4″ screws. Repeat for 2nd icebox support frame.

Step 2

Cut the 61 5/8″, 11 5/16″ and 26″ pieces of 2×8. Cut the 11 5/16″ pieces of 2×6 and rip down to 4 3/4″ wide x 11 5/16″ long. Drill pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material to join the boards together. Offset the 61 5/8″ boards from the ends of the 26″ boards 1/8″ for expansion. Trim the 11 5/16″ boards to fit, if needed. Join all of the boards together and secure with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Measure the length of the table top that is assembled so far. Cut 2 pieces of 2×8 to match the length of the table (76 1/8″). Drill pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material in the ends of the 26″ boards. Secure the 76 1/8″ boards to the 26″ boards.

Step 3

Drill pocket holes along one edge of each of the 66 3/4″ and 31″ 2×4’s for 1 1/2″ material. Attach the 2 icebox support frames to the 66 3/4″ skirt boards, secure with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Center and secure the icebox support frames/skirt to the table top with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Attach the 31″ skirts on the ends with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the 28 1/2″ legs from the 4×4 posts. On one end measure over 2 3/4″ and cut a 45 deg about 4″ long. In the center of the 45 deg ‘flat’, mark a line at 1″ and 2 1/2″ from the post end. Drill 7/16″ holes about 1 1/2″ deep at the two marks. Install a 5/16″ wood anchor/thread insert in each hole per the manufacturers instructions. Repeat for each leg.

Take the 4 – 8″ 2×4 pieces and cut a 45 deg on each end. Mark the center of the pieces and 1″ and 2 1/2″ up from the bottom. Drill 1/2″ thru holes.

Attach the corner brackets to the skirts with 1 3/4″ screws. Install a 5/16″ washer on each bolt and secure the legs to the table using 5/16″ x 3″ bolts.

Step 5

Cut 4 pieces of 2×6 that are about 24″ long. Predrill holes in the 16″ 1×4. Join two of the 24″ boards together with the 16″ board and secure with 1 3/4″ screws. The 16″ board should be centered along the joint of the 24″ boards and about 3 1/8″ in from one end.

Mark 22 1/4″ from the end and in the center between the two 24″ boards, drill a 2 1/8″ hole with a hole saw. Then cut the lid to 22 1/4″ length. Repeat for the other lid. Verify the lid fits in the table, trim as necessary.

Step 6

Sand the table until smooth finishing with 120 grit sand paper, always finish sanding in the direction of the grain. Apply wood conditioner and stain to the table and allow to dry. Apply a top coat as directed and allow to dry. Make sure to check out Kruse’s Workshop finishing tips here.